In a new segment exploring observations, conversations and questions from across the Middle Eastern beauty industry, editor Muna Abdi examines the growing influence of dupes.
During the audience Q&A at a Tones of Beauty panel discussion in July, I asked a group of industry leaders whether the rise of dupes and inspired-by fragrances can support long-term growth in a category where low price is a key part of the proposition.
But conversations I started with fragrance consumers on Reddit suggest the picture is more complicated. Fragrance communities on the site include plenty of consumers who credit affordable alternatives with lowering the barrier to entry for those who may not be prepared to spend £100 or more on a bottle. This approach allows some to discover new scent profiles without making a significant financial commitment before moving on to decants and original fragrances.
Others have no interest in moving up the price ladder. If they can buy a fragrance they enjoy for £20 or £30 rather than £150, the saving is the big selling point rather than a temporary stage on the way to a premium purchase.
That creates a more interesting commercial question for the industry. One panellist at the Tones of Beauty discussion described price as “the lowest form of competition”, arguing that a model built primarily around undercutting competitors becomes difficult to sustain. If one brand sells an inspired-by fragrance for £30, another for £20 and another for £15, there is always another competitor that can attempt to go lower.
But consumers don’t necessarily decide on price alone. Quality, performance, packaging, brand identity, distribution, storytelling and the experience surrounding a fragrance can all influence the purchase. As the dupe market has grown, consumers have also become more discerning, comparing how closely alternatives resemble the original and how long they last.
The dupe market has also evolved, shifting the value equation across the category. Some fragrances are now described by consumers as “one-to-one”, meaning they consider them extremely close to the original.
That shift impacts the premium end of the market. When a consumer can compare a £20 or £30 alternative with an original costing £150 or £200, it inevitably raises the question: what are they getting for the difference?
Craftsmanship, ingredients, longevity, exclusivity, heritage and brand equity can all contribute to that value. But premium brands need to demonstrate why those qualities justify the price, particularly when consumers believe they can achieve the same experience for much less.
The fragrance market can accommodate different price points, but a sustainable proposition at any level needs to offer consumers something they believe is worth paying for. Premium brands need to rely on more than their name on the bottle, while dupe brands need to compete on more than how much they can undercut the next brand.
